NDSM Wharf – A New Generation

Located across the IJ River in Amsterdam’s

undiscovered north, the NDSM Wharf remained a forgotten wasteland for years,

left abandoned after the decline of the ship building industry that prospered

emphatically for the best part of the 20th century. Invaded by

squatters and a collective group of artists, this derelict space slowly began

to change shape, replacing industry with creativity to become the striking

setting of cultural prowess that exists today.

My initial

introduction to the city’s northern quarter was one I remember with great

fondness, after agreeing to a tour from a friend who was familiar with the area

due to several outings to the wharf’s humungous IJ Hallen, Europe’s largest

flea market. Having lived in Amsterdam for over three years, I quite ashamedly

had no idea what lay on the opposite banks of the water, ignorantly believing

the site to be a waste ground for hippies and drug infused dance events.

The journey

began behind Central Station on a particularly pleasant summer’s morning, as I

received the first surprise of what was to be an eye opener of a day. Not only

would we be enjoying a delightful, ten minute boat trip benefitting from a

refreshing escape from the congestion and superb views to boot, the crossing

was also absolutely free of charge! With several ferries departing regularly courtesy

of the municipality of Amsterdam, the dock was packed with citizens awaiting

transfer, with a notable absence of tourists pervading the crowds.

(editor’s note: you can find out more information on the Amsterdam Central Station, as well as the boat ferry by checking the video at the bottom of this article)

The direct

line to the NDSM Wharf was running late, so we decided to take a detour

eastwards to the IJplein, which leads to a rather unattractive residential suburb.

After cycling past a plethora of snack bars and veering off left towards our

destination, we ventured though a welcome attack of greenery and a series of

idyllic hamlets, populated by relaxed, smiling faces, granting a dramatic

contrast to the fast paced austerity of the city centre.

We finally

reached the wharf after an exhilarating hour’s ride and my immediate thoughts

were unexpectedly positive. Adorned with a seemingly deserted hangar of

colossal proportions and a towering, somewhat dilapidated crane, the vast

quayside evoked a vivid image of a flourishing past, when the NDSM

(Netherlands’ Dock and Shipbuilding Company) dominated the waters with their

output of cargo vessels, bulk carriers, and battleships for the Dutch naval

fleet. Such reminders of this thriving heritage are dispersed with a scattering

of contemporary artworks, offering an indication of the area’s current purpose

as a gravitational hub for creative talent.

However,

before we could truly explore this arresting industrial landscape, we sought

out much needed refreshment at the irresistible Noorderlicht Cafe. Lining the

water and subsequently affording picturesque views, this charming eatery

instantly impresses with its sunny grass terrace, organic menu and friendly

atmosphere. The cafe was brimming with an eclectic clientele and empty seats

were sparse, yet luckily we found a sharing table inside the charismatic

greenhouse and sat down to enjoy an appetising meal and the most delicious cola

I have ever tasted.

Fully

rejuvenated, we headed out into the wilderness to investigate, with the nearby

discarded trams and walls of colourful graffiti immediately drawing attention. Entrance

into the gigantic warehouse just a few steps away provided an unanticipated

scene resembling an indoor city, arranged with avenues of studios bustling with

all manner of inspired artistry, which I discovered later is in fact the

largest breeding ground for such activity within the entire country. This

immense space also houses a surprisingly sophisticated skate park and is

utilised for countless events, festivals and performances throughout the year.

So my

timely education was complete after spending another hour or so wandering along

the water’s edge, past the former workers’ office turned restaurant of the

IJ-Kantine, the redeveloped buildings occupied by several global media moguls,

including MTV, and the astounding Kraanspoor Office, which grants a stunning

example of the legendary innovation of Dutch design.

All

previous opinions of this expansive dockland were replaced with an abounding

affection, as I promised to return and introduce more of my friends and family

to this rugged urban refuge. In fact, I have revisited the wharf on numerous

occasions since and have witnessed an ongoing revival, with the neighbourhood

becoming more and more popular amongst the hip and trendy crowd. Whilst

regeneration has already transformed this neglected setting into the uniquely

beautiful environment that exists today, I merely pray that the dock retains

its endearing realism through future developments, preserving that industrial

charm and authenticity that initiated this long lasting love affair.

For more information regarding up and coming

events and for a detailed portrayal of the NDSM phenomenon, check out the district’s

comprehensive website at

www.ndsm.nl/

.